Today is the day! If you’ve gone through all the Before You Begin and Software Basics lessons up to this point, you will be well-prepared to make your first cut. If you haven’t, I highly recommend checking out all those lesson for my best beginner tips.
For the first cut, we are going to start VERY simple. There’s no use in trying to cut something super intricate or large until you have a basic understanding of how the blade, mat and machine work. This will save you time, money and frustration in the long run. I’ll walk you through a simple cut step by step in this lesson, then next time we’ll learn how to save a project. Then you’ll be done with the Software Basics series and can move on to more beginner projects!
Note: This post contains affiliate links. That means if you click the link and purchase something, I receive a small commission. You pay the same price. This helps me to be able to keep my business going and provide more tutorials. I will always be honest about my opinion of any product.
Step 1: Setting up the file
I suggest starting with cardstock because it’s one of the easiest things to cut and it’s inexpensive. So start a new document and set your page size to the size of your cardstock. I’ve set mine to 12” x 12”.
Now look in your library for the free shape called “Speech Bubble” on a Cameo 3 or “Whale” on a Cameo 4. (When I talk about Cameo 4 machines, that includes the Plus and Pro).
These are very simple shapes that work well for our first cut. If you have a different machine, look for one similar. Add the design to your page.
Both these shapes come in with no fill color.
I’m going to fill it with color, because I always recommend working with filled shapes. I’m adding a fill color that’s similar to the cardstock I’m using to cut it out.
Let’s leave it at its original size. Notice that the shape is smack dab in the middle of the page at first. I’d like to make good use of my paper, so I’m going to move it to the upper left.
You can cut it anywhere on the page you like. Just be sure to leave a little bit of space around it. Since we speak and read English, we tend to start in the upper left. But by using different areas of your mat, you’ll make it last longer.
Step 2: Choosing Cut Settings
It’s time to learn about the Send area in the software and cut settings.
BIG IDEA: If you understand cut settings and how to adjust them, your Silhouette experience will be exponentially better than someone who doesn’t. Understanding cut settings in the key to making great projects. Stick with me and I’ll teach you all I’ve learned in over 10 years of using the machines, several years of troubleshooting as a Customer Service Rep for Silhouette America, and as a teacher of cut settings classes.
When you’re ready to start cutting your project, you open the Send area of the software.
If you have used a different machine before, you may need to change to your current machine in order to see the right options. Look in the lower right and make sure it’s the right one and that it says “Ready.”
Your mat with your design still shows on the left, but notice that it looks a little different. The lines around the shape are bold now.
That’s called our Cut Preview. It shows us what is going to cut and how it’s going to cut. On any given pass through the machine, you can cut some or all of the shapes on your file, and you can cut them in different ways. It’s up to you. I’ll walk you through each of the settings as we go through the Successful Beginner Projects series. Let’s just keep it simple for today.
Cut Style
Look over to the right. You’ll see that we are in the mode called Simple. That means that we are going to just select each piece and tell it to No Cut, Cut or Cut Edge. Click on your Speech Bubble or Whale so that it’s selected and you’ll see that Cut is highlighted (the gray bar is on it). Any design you get from the Silhouette Design Store or create yourself in the software with the drawing tools will be set on Cut. (Text is different, but we’ll talk about that later).
Now set it to No Cut. See how the lines are now pale? That’s the visual cue that this piece is set on No Cut. If you started the cut job right now, nothing would cut.
Next set it to Cut Edge. The lines are bold again but brighter. I’ll teach you more about when to use Cut Edge later.
Here’s picture where I have the shape 3 times with each of the cut options. Notice the line colors. The software is giving information on what will cut and how it will cut, so you want to learn how to read the cut preview. This will save you MANY headaches!
Make sure to set your shape back to Cut.
Carriage 1 or 2
Newer Cameo models and the Curio have 2 tool holders so you can put 2 tools in at the same time. If your machine doesn’t have 2 tool holders, you won’t see options for both.
Notice that we’re looking at Carriage 1. The tool holders on a Cameo 4 machines are numbered 1 for the left and 2 for the right. On the Cameo 3, the left one has a red circle and the right one a blue circle. The settings we are choosing now are for the tool we’re putting in the left tool holder.
Click on the arrow next to Carriage 2. This one has a blue circle that matches the right tool holder on the Cameo 3. The settings in this section apply to the tool you put in that holder. When you click this arrow, the Carriage 1 section closes and the Carriage 2 section opens (if you are on the latest software version).
About Cameo 4s — The Cameo 4 machines can only use certain tools in Carriage 2. You may not be able to select certain materials, actions and tools, but you should still be able to adjust the cut style.
Make sure your shape is selected and click the Cut under the Carriage 2 section. The lines of the shape turn blue to indicate that this shape will be cut with whatever is in the right tool holder and uses those settings. Click through the 3 options of No Cut, Cut and Cut Edge here.
When you’ve done that to see how it works, set the shape back to Cut on Carriage 1. The line should be red again.
Now let’s look at that right column. You’ll see 3 rows where we’ll select a material, an action and a tool.
Material
The first row is where you tell the software what material you are cutting. It then gives you suggested default settings for that material.
We’re going to select Cardstock. Click on the arrow at the end of the first row and you’ll see a list of all different kinds of materials. We’re looking for Cardstock, Plain.
Click on that to select it, and that should now be what’s in your first row.
Default settings
Once you select a material, you see the default settings — the ones the machine is going to use unless you make a change to them.
Every machine, blade, design, mat, cutting strip, piece of material and even local weather is different. There’s no 1 magic setting that will work for all people for all designs with all blades and all materials and all weather. It’s just not possible. The settings for Silhouette brand products are pretty spot on. The largest variation for other materials is going to be with paper of any kind, because there are SO many different ones. The key to great cuts is knowing what to adjust when. I’ve got LOTS of experience with that so stay with me.
BIG IDEA: The default settings are a suggested starting point, not an absolute.
Blade number
The black area with the numbers is for the number the blade is set on. This is especially important when you’re using an AutoBlade. We’ll talk more about blades below.
Force
This used to be called thickness, but Force is a WAY better name. This setting has options of 1-33 and adjusts how much downward force the machine puts on the blade. It is adjusted based on the density of a material. A piece of shrink plastic may have the same thickness as a piece of cardstock, but it is much more dense.
BIG IDEA: Adjust force before blade number.
Changing the blade number is a large adjustment; changing force is more of a fine tuning.
BIG IDEA: You want just enough blade and just enough force to cut cleanly through the material. If those settings are too high, you usually ruin the material or at the very least shorten the lifespan of your blade and mat. If they are too low, the worse thing that happens is you have to cut again.
Speed
This adjusts how quickly the motor and blade will move around the page. The choices are 1-10. In general, the thicker the material or the more intricate the cut, the slower your speed needs to be.
BIG IDEA: You can cut too fast, but you can’t cut too slow. So err on the side of caution.
Passes
This is how many times the machine will cut each shape. For example, when I’m cutting fabric I always double cut to make sure each thread gets cut. Remember how I said shrink plastic is dense? Because of that, the default is to make 2 passes (double cut). Don’t get into the habit of always double cutting. Get your settings right in the first place and you’ll rarely have to do it.
BIG IDEA: If you’re having to make multiple passes on a thin material like vinyl or HTV, your settings are off. You usually only need multiple passes for very thick or dense materials.
Line Segment Overcut
This isn’t labeled, but it is THE BEST THING SINCE SOME GENIUS COMBINED COFFEE AND CHOCOLATE AND CALLED IT A MOCHA. Using this setting will revolutionize your cutting, particularly with vinyl. It’s the funny looking triangle with an empty box beside it.
Here’s what it does: when your turn this on (and I recommend a setting of 0.1, which is the default), as the motor gets to a corner in the design it goes 1/10 mm past the corner, picks up the blade, drops it back in the material 1/10 mm before the corner, and goes in the new direction. You will never see that 1/10 mm extension. If the blade stays in the material around a corner, it can pull at the corners, particularly on thin materials like vinyl. But if it picks it up, there’s much less chance of that happening.
BIG IDEA: Line Segment Overcut prevents pulling at the corners of a design and gives a nice, crisp corner.
I recommend ALWAYS using Line Segment Overcut. I LITERALLY CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH! It’s what we do instinctively when we cut by hand and it’s brilliant. It does take more time to complete the cut job, so you can play with not using it and see how it works for you on your material and design. But it’s definitely a game-changer when you get pulling at the corners.
Just click the box next to the triangle to turn it on.
More
Click the word MORE at the end of the line to open the Advanced Material Panel. I’ll teach you how to do that once we get to cutting more projects.
All of this has to do with cut settings for your material. But there are other choices to make in this area as well.
Action
The second row in the right column is for telling the machine what action to perform.
Cut – just a regular cut all the way through the material. This is what you use most often and what we want to do here in our first cut.
Score – applies less force on the blade so it doesn’t cut all the way through. You use the same blade — the machine just handles it differently.
Sketch – for drawing the shape with a sketch pen (or your own pen in the pen holder, which is my preference).
Stipple (Cameo 3 and 4 and Curio only) – to make little dots with a pen on paper or the etching tool (Curio only) on metal.
Pop-out Cut (Cameo 4 and Portrait 3 only) — to cut materials even like paper without a mat or adhesive backing. The machine leaves little tabs connecting the cut piece to the background. After you cut and unload, you pop the shape out of the background by breaking the tabs.
Tool
The 3rd row in this right-hand column is where you tell the machine what tool you are going to use to perform the action on the material you chose. The tools that are available to choose in here are based on which machine you’re using.
Auto blade
This is only on the Cameo 3 and 4 and Portrait 2 and 3. The machine adjusts this blade for you before the cut starts, based on the blade number setting you have chosen in the Send area. As long as you have this type of blade selected in your cut settings, you’re good to go.
Just know that the AutoBlade can only go in the left tool holder on the machines with 2 tool slots in the carriage. You can’t use it on other machines. And you have to get the right type for your machine, since the Cameo 4 and Portrait 3 use the new auto-tool detection feature.
This is what the one for the Cameo 3 and Portrait 2 looks like. It’s called Type A—
Here’s Type B, which is for the Cameo 4 and Portrait 3. It has the silver bar along the back–
Ratchet blade
This is the standard blade and works on any machine. This one you must adjust yourself before inserting it into the machine. There are several variations of the ratchet blade. To use these blades in a Cameo 4 or Portrait 3 model, you need to use the adapter included with the machine.
Regular
This one has a black casing. Look for the numbers on the bottom and the red line. The red line indicates the number the blade is set on currently. The thicker the material you are cutting, the more of the blade needs to be exposed. We’ll talk about cut settings in a bit and in future lessons. For now, check the number the blade is on.
Fabric
This one has a blue casing and isn’t sold any longer because it confused people. But I’ll explain it because you might still see it in a store. It’s exactly the same as the regular ratchet blade except for the color of the casing. That’s so you can keep separate blades for cardstock and fabric if you want to. It’s like keeping your sewing scissors separate from your regular scissors. If you go to buy a new blade and this is the only one the store has in stock, it works just the same as the regular blade.
Premium
This one has a white casing and a blue top. The blade is made of a stronger material that is supposed to last 3 times as long as a regular blade. I have found this to be true in my experience so I do like the premium blade a lot.
It has 1 other advantage. I’ve listed it with the ratchet blades as that’s what the software considers it. But it doesn’t actually adjust with the ratchet adjuster. You adjust it by just turning it with your hand, so you can actually set it on something like a 2 ½. It gives you more options for tweaking your cut settings.
Deep Cut Blade
The Deep Cut Blade is for the Curio, Cameo 3 and 4 and Portrait 2 and 3 only, as these machines have more clearance between the mat at the bar. Other machines have a 1mm so can’t cut as thick of materials. You can adjust this up to 20 instead of 10, as the max blade length is 2mm instead of 1mm. Like the premium blade, this one adjusts by hand and is made of a stronger metal.
Kraft Blade
This is a stronger blade for thicker, more dense materials. Because the machines have different amounts of clearance under the bar and different maximum force, there are different variations.
2mm
You can use the 2mm Kraft Blade on the Cameo 3 and Portrait 2, the Cameo 4 and Portrait 3 with the adapter, and the Curio. Like the Deep Cut blade, it adjusts up to 20 (2mm).
3mm
The 3mm Kraft Blade is for the Cameo 4 only because is can use the increased force the 4 has. It adjusts up to 30 (3mm) and fits right in the holder without an adapter. It has the “2” on it to indicate it goes only in carriage 2 and has the auto-detection bar on the back.
Rotary Blade
The Rotary Blade is for the Cameo 4 only because it’s the only machine that can move it correctly. Rather than being a stationary blade that the machine moves through the material, it is a circular blade that rolls over it. If you’ve ever used a rotary cutter on fabric, it’s like that. Because of that different type of movement, you can cut materials like fabric without a stabilizer. It’s another one that can only be used in the right-side tool carriage.
Punch Tool
The Punch Tool is another one that’s only for the Cameo 4 and it’s always used in tool carriage 2. When you’re cutting materials like vinyl or HTV, you have to weed the background away and sometimes it’s hard to get it started. The Punch Tool can make little holes to make it easier to start the weeding.
Stippling/Etching Tool
The Stippling/Etching Tool is only for the Curio. You can use it to punch dot indents on metal or etch all kinds of materials (metal, acrylic, leather to name a few).
Embossing Tools
This is another specialty set of tools for the Curio. You use the to emboss or deboss — “push” a design into materials so that it’s raised or depressed from the background. We think most often of doing this on paper, but my friend Cindy Pope uses it for tooling on leather. There are wide embossing and fine embossing tools.
Pen
You can have any of your regular cut designs drawn instead of cut. The Silhouette Design Store also sells sketch designs, and with Designer Edition and above you can create sketch edge and fill patterns. The sketch feature is also great for writing, and this works best with sketch fonts. To see how I addressed all the envelopes for my daughter’s wedding, see this post.
I find that the Silhouette brand sketch pens are only mediocre. They don’t last long and tend to skip. I recommend using your own pen in the pen holder. While there are new pens for the Cameo 4 and Portrait 3 (used with the adapter), there is not a new pen holder. However, I have successfully used the older style pen holder in the adapter in my Cameo 4 and it works fine.
That’s all we’re going to look at in this section for now. Make sure you have the appropriate material, action, tool and tool holder selected. I’m using the auto-blade in tool 1 (upper section) to cut Cardstock, Plain. And I’m going to leave the default cut settings for now.
Step 3 — Adjusting the blade
AutoBlade
If you have a Cameo 3 or 4 or the Portrait 2 or 3 and are using the auto blade, the machine adjusts it to the correct number for you. As long as you have it set in the Send area, you’re good to go.
Premium Blade
This one you adjust with your fingers by just turning it. Set it on 3 — so that the red line is over the number 3.
Ratchet Blade
If your machine can use the AutoBlade, you will probably use that most often. But it’s good to know how the ratchet blades work as well. Once in awhile there’s a bad batch of AutoBlades or your local store doesn’t have them in stock, so you should learn about them.
Here’s a ratchet blade set to 2. I can tell because the red line is under the number 2.
To adjust it —
- Stick the blade in the hole on the left side of the front platform of the machine with the red line facing forward.
- Turn clockwise and counterclockwise to move the blade to a different number. You should hear and feel a click as you set it to each number. Go slowly and make sure to hit each one.
BIG IDEA: Do not cross the 0-10 threshold with this type of blade. By that I mean when you are adjusting it, don’t go past 10 up to 0 or past 0 down to 10. This can throw the blade completely out of whack permanently. Remove the blade and you will now see that the red line is under the number that was facing forward after your adjustments.
BIG IDEA: When you get a new blade of this type, I recommend clicking up and down the dial several times, clicking in each number. Once in a while you will get a blade that is not actually clicked in the right spot in comparison to the number and this will fix it.
If you have a ratchet blade, practice setting it to different numbers. Notice how much of the blade sticks out at 0, 5 and 10.
0 – you should feel none of the blade sticking out, or just the teensiest amount so that you aren’t even sure that it is coming out.
5 — you should definitely see and feel the blade coming out.
10– If held up against the white of the machine or a piece of paper, you can see that the blade is a 45° angle.
3 is the default blade number for Cardstock, so set it to that now.
The blade cap
Let’s look at 1 more thing on the blade. This will pertain to any type. The end will have a white cap at the very tip. This is how you clean the blade. Use your Bluetooth tool (or just your fingers) to gently unscrew the cap. Check for any debris or even fibers, as these can affect your cuts. Make sure to get the cap back on straight and fully.
Step 4: Loading the blade
Let’s talk about putting the blade in the machine. Depending on which blade you are using, some things are the same and some are different. There are several parts of the blade that affect blade loading.
The fin(s)
Auto blades
Make sure the fins on the back slide into the grooves in the blade holder.
Ratchet Blade
There’s a fin on this blade too, where the ridges are. Face that forward. It doesn’t matter if the number is facing you. We want the fin going forward so there’s no chance it will get caught on the mechanisms on the motor box. It doesn’t go down into the gap, but that’s a good visual reference of where to put it.
Premium or deep cut blade
It doesn’t matter which way this type of blade faces.
The collar
This is the part that goes all the way around the blade and sticks out. Make sure it’s resting fully down in the blade holder. Check it both before and after you lock the blade into place. Not getting that blade all the way down in the holder is one of the biggest beginner mistakes.
These blades are loaded correctly.
These blades are not, because the collar isn’t resting down on the blade holder.
The lock
This is really important. If you do it wrong, you could break your blade or machine, or at the very least get an incomplete cut.
On the Cameo 3 or 4, Portrait 2 or 3 – slide the lock lever until you see the blue circle through the hole.
On other machines – The correct unlocked position for the lock lever is pointing to 10 and 4 on a clock.
The locked position is 2 and 8 on a clock.
Some folks get lazy with this and point it at 12 and 6. If you do that, the blade will bump up as it goes over the rollers and not cut in that area. If you try to load or unload the blade when the lock lever is at 12 and 6, you will likely break off the teeth the blade holder. Then you have a very expensive paper weight.
About test cuts
Test cuts are a GREAT idea! I always recommend them, but not the one in the software. You’ll see a spot for a test cut in your Send area. But here’s the problem – once it’s done, you have to unload the mat to check the cut. Uh, no! I’ll teach you later how to make your own shapes for test cuts. But for today, we aren’t going to worry about it since our whole cut is basically a test.
Step 5 – Getting the mat ready
Let’s talk about that mat. The purpose of the mat is to hold the material in place while it’s being cut, and to hold in place the pieces after they’ve been cut. You need to use a mat anytime you cut a material that does not have its own adhesive backing. If you were cutting something like adhesive vinyl or heat transfer vinyl, it has its own adhesive backing that does this job. We’ll talk more later about cutting without the mat.
The mat also provides a barrier between the blade and the machine, so that your blade isn’t cutting into the cutting strip. That cutting strip is an extra bit of protection as well so the blade isn’t touching the machine itself.
Unsticky-ing the mat
Here’s the main thing you need to know about the mat. IT’S VERY STICKY IN THE BEGINNING! If you plop your cardstock on the mat and start cutting right away, you are probably going to create a huge mess. We need to prep the mat a bit so the cardstock doesn’t stick onto it too much.
When you first get a new mat, take the cover off. Then stick the mat onto your jeans or a tshirt a couple of times. Yes, I’m serious! Just put in on the piece of clothing and pull it off. This puts a few fibers on the mat and helps your material release better after the cut.
Now that the mat is ready, put your cardstock on it. If your page size is less than 12” x 12”, the paper goes in the upper left corner on the mat. English, remember? Look for the black arrow on the mat. That’s the edge that’s going to go into the machine first. Make sure your placement of your paper on the mat matches what you see in the software.
Rub the paper gently onto the mat to make sure it’s staying. Remember that on a new mat it’s going to be kinda sticky, so don’t get too aggressive here.
Step 6 – Loading the mat
Next we’re going to load the mat into the machine. Look for the arrow and make sure that’s the edge of the mat that’s going into the machine first. Notice the margins on the mat. The top and bottom are the same; the sides are the same; but the top and bottom margins are wider than the side margins. That means you can put the mat into the machine bottom first but not side first. As you mat begins to get worn, you can extend the life of it by flipping it around like that.
Place the left edge of your mat along the blue or gray line on the front platform of the machine (the one with the arrows pointing to it). On a Portrait, it’s the short line farthest left.
I like to hold the mat at the middle of the bottom. I get the most even pressure that way. Butt the edge of the mat up against the outside rollers. Then press LOAD on your LCD screen. If you have buttons, it’s the up arrow.
If you’re on a machine other than the Cameo 3, make sure to use Load Cutting Mat and NOT Load Media. On a Cameo 1, make sure the black dot is next to those words. If it isn’t, scroll through your options using the buttons with the up or down arrows on them.
Check it!
Now peek behind the roller bar. You want to make sure that your mat loaded evenly, meaning that the outside rollers gripped at the same time. It’s a bit hard to see in this pic because the mat is clear, but notice that the top edge of the mat is even with the back edge of that cutting strip.
If it goes in crooked, it will eventually not be gripped by both rollers and start sliding all over the place. Look closely at this one and you can see ever so slightly the edge of the mat. It isn’t even with the cutting strip.
If it’s not loaded straight, unload and do it again.
The rollers on the middle of the bar — the white plastic ones with the springs around them — are a secondary means of holding your material down (the adhesive on the mat is the main one). On a Cameo 3, you can move them to space them equally on the material. They are fixed on all other machines.
Mat loading help on Cameo 4 models
The Cameo 4 models have a special feature to help load the mat. It’s really helpful because you can hold the mat with both hands instead of just one. Here’s how you do it–
- You have to have Silhouette Studio version 4.4.270 or higher, as that’s when the programming was added for this.
- Your firmware must be up to date. The software will tell you to do this in the Send area after you update to that version of the software or higher.
- Make sure your machine is on and detected by the software.
- Get your mat ready.
- Press the Load arrow as normal. You’ll see it begin to flash.
- After it starts to flash, you have 3 seconds to put your mat in front of the rollers. When the machine detects that it’s there, it will pull it in for you. How does it know? There’s a little hole in the front of the platform, just to the right of the load line. There’s a sensor in there that can detect the presence of the mat.
- Practice doing this a few times, always checking to see if it loaded straight.
Step 7 –Performing the first cut
Okay, we’re ready to cut. Let’s go through a checklist:
- Mat loaded with cardstock firmly on it
- Correct material chosen
- Cut action chosen
- Correct tool and tool holder chosen
- Line Segment Overcut on
- Blade adjusted (if ratchet blade)
- Blade loaded and locked correctly
- Cut preview checked (to make sure correct pieces are cutting with correct tool)
- Machine on, detected by software and free from obstructions
If you have any issue with your machine not being recognized in the software, see here for Windows or here for Mac.
Here we go! Press SEND at the bottom and watch the machine do its thing. If something starts going REALLY wrong, then you can press the Pause button on the machine. When it’s done, don’t unload yet.
Step 8 – Evaluating the cut
BIG IDEA: ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS check the cut BEFORE your unload the mat.
If you are unsure of settings, I always recommend starting on the low side of them. As long as you don’t unload the mat, you can adjust the settings and send it again. But if you started with them too high (blade number and force), you ruin your material. Once you unload, you’ll never get it in the exact place again so you need to check BEFORE you unload.
Try lifting your shape or the cardstock around it. If it didn’t cut all the way through, go back to your Send area and adjust the force up and cut again. I usually go about 3 at a time. If you keep doing that and it still doesn’t cut through, move the blade number up to a 4. Keep checking and adjusting and sending until it’s cut through. It will depend on your piece of cardstock. We’ll talk more in coming lessons about how to get the right settings before you start.
If for some reason your cardstock ripped or tore or the corners got pulled, that indicates that the blade number or force was too high. Lower those, move your shape to a different area of the page, and try again. Keep tweaking until you get a good cut.
Sometimes — just sometimes — the AutoBlade does not adjust correctly and sets the blade to go too deep. It then cuts through your mat. If that happens, pull the blade out and look at what number it’s on. Put it back in and try the cut again in a different area. Check the blade again. If it isn’t adjusting correctly, contact Silhouette America’s Customer Support.
Step 9 – Removing the mat
Once you’re sure the cut is good, hit Unload on the screen of your machine. For those machines with arrow keys, it’s the down arrow.
Step 10 — Taking the shape off the mat
Remember that your mat is pretty sticky still. It’s not going to want to release the shape easily. If your cardstock is on the thin side and is curling as you remove the shape from the mat, try an old trick. Flip the mat over and remove the mat from the paper instead. This way the mat is curling and not the paper. If there are any areas of your mat not covered by the cardstock, put your mat cover on the table with the shiny side up and lay the mat on that. My craft room table is always a creative mess and this keeps the mat clean.
Congratulations! You’ve made your first cut! How’d you do?
Up Next
In our final Software Basics lesson, I’ll show you how to save a project you’ve created and shut the software down.
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